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A
Bit About Breeding
Selection:
It is important that animals be selected for their (genetic)
height. We have found Australian feral goat, Angora goats
and Cashmere goats to be the best base stock for developing
our miniature animals.
Our
aim in producing these little animals is to breed an
animal with very good type, with great conformation
in a genetically small height. This can be done over
a number of generations and it can be done well if we
take the time and put in the effort to select only the
very best animals available to us at the time.
It is also just as important to evaluate breeding plans,
remembering that it is always better to use a slightly
larger animal of good quality and type, instead of a
smaller one
of (conformationally) inferior quality.
We believe that it is important that animals are matched
to their prospective partners ensuring that both animals
compliment each other. Animals with similar faults should
never be paired together. |
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We
recommend that Breeders choose the type that they would
like to breed, then carefully select animals with the characteristics
that they need to produce animals meeting the Breed Standard
of Excellence for that type. Sometimes, however, it is
necessary to cross the different types, or use animals with
less than perfect characteristics, to introduce or strengthen
conformation, round off or compact body shape, breed in or
out hair, 'perfect' temperament or height, in a line of animals.
Crossing of types, if necessary, should be done in the lower
Grades to reduce the chances of "throw-backs" being
produced in the higher Grades.
Animals that are weak in one area are paired to an animal
that is strong in the same area, in an effort to improve on
any weakness.
We
evaluate any faults that our animal/s may have, some faults
will be worse than others and some will make the animal not
worth using. Breed Type is something that we are happy
to work on and we often select animals that are not quite
up to the breed type standard, but excel in conformation.
Then there are the animals that we simply will not use. (eg,
bad teeth - uneven bite, nasty temperament, retained testicle,
navel hernia..... also (for us), cow hocks, sway back, narrow
chest / hips / pins, double teats, etc....).
When using inbreeding or line breeding, it is very irresponsible
to breed with animals that have bad faults as these faults
may appear to be bred out in the first cross, but inevitably
come back in future generations and "bite us on the
bum"!
We try to select animals that can process their food efficiently,
(an even bite is a must), animals that have plenty
of room for digestion and the space to carry kids, animals
that are deep and wide throughout, have nice tidy udders with
good strong attachments to the body, that produce enough milk,
delivered through nicely structured teats to feed kids easily,
with good straight strong legs that support such a body and
carry the little animal easily to and from feed and water
stations. We want animals that are healthy and strong and
able to withstand an outbreak of worms or cocci, should it
occur and an animal that "bounces back" quickly
after giving birth, or ill health. We strive for animals that
live a long and healthy life.
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Contrary
to popular belief, inbreeding and line breeding have
been our greatest asset so far, enabling us to fix the
height genes.
Pairing half brother to half sisters or the smaller
parent back over it's offspring, has proven to produce
top quality animals of very similar height. Many different
breeds of livestock, cats, dogs, poultry, birds, have
been created and characteristics fixed, using different
degrees of inbreeding and line breeding.
While the animals being produced are healthy, strong
and conformationally correct, we believe that there
is no harm in this type of breeding.
There is a lot of work involved in going over pedigrees
and making sure that the pairings are suitable but that
is what we enjoy. |
At
the end of the day, there is no quick way to produce genuine,
good quality miniature goats.
We
recommend that you choose the type you are breeding for then
select animals of that type, to pair together. Knowing the
animals background and the breed type of the parents/grandparents
is also extremely helpful. With a good eye for selection and
a good hand at pairing, top quality true to type, genuinely
small animals can be produced.
Other
Things You May Need To Know
Breeding
Goats are often seasonal breeders, but I have found that my
does will breed all year round. The
gestation for a goat is approximately 150 days (5 months)
give or take a few days either way.
Pairing often occurs in late summer through early winter.
I have found over many years of breeding that my does will
not "hold" a pregnancy through the very hot months.
We do not pair our animals after November right through to
the end of February (when Nov / Jan temperatures are up over
35°C). Breeders living in cooler areas will not have this
problem.
We usually start pairing in early March and try to "stagger"
the pairings over the following months so that we do not have
all our babies over one or two weeks, we prefer them to be
born in groups of 4-6 mums, with a few weeks in between. We
try to have our babies being born coming out of winter and
into spring (as the weather is warming up and the days are
getting longer).
How old should she be?
I personally would consider the overall size and maturity
of the animal and would not breed a small young doe until
she was at least 12 months of age. My smaller does are left
until they are 18 months of age and some even 2yrs of age,
so that their little bodies cope better with the delivery.
If I feel the doe is ready to be bred, I put them in with
the buck so they can be mated.
If you are servicing out (using someone else's buck), be sure
to book your doe in early to avoid missing out (and to make
sure you will have time to bring her back if she cycles again).
If it is at all possible, select a buck that has stock on
the ground. It is a big bonus if you can get an idea of what
the buck has produced and with what does. These 'proven' bucks
may have a higher Service Fee but you are given a good idea
on what they could produce. Vaccinating and de-worming, prior
to breeding is always a good idea.
When
is she in season?
The female has an 18-21 day oestrus cycle or "season."
She
will come "into season" once a month (except through
winter). This is characteristically displayed with constant
wagging of the tail. She may get a little more vocal and will
want to rub her body along your leg, get cuddly with the children,
your dog, pretty much anyone or anything that will give her
some attention.
Does will often get "cuddly" with each other, rubbing
and following each other around for the day. She will usually
stay 'on heat' for about 24 hours or so with some being known
to go 2-3 days. She may get a little swollen around her 'bottom"
(vulva) but will not discharge in the same way as a female
dog, so should be a lot cleaner.
The
Female will often come into season when the male goat is introduced
as the presence of a smelly buck usually encourages the does
to 'come into season. I have known of does that will only
'come into season' when exposed to a buck.
Occasionally, a doe will be brought into a 'false heat' where
the follicle doesn't rupture to release the ovum (egg). The
doe will come back 'on heat' 5-7 days later and if covered
by the buck she will conceive on this mating. If this 'return
heat' is missed then she will come back into season in 21
days or so.
She's
in season!!!
Does
will seek out the attentions of the buck (if he is present)
and will encourage him, often teasing him by turning in circles
or running just far enough ahead of him to keep him interested.
The buck will chase her around, rubbing on her shoulder, "blubbering"
with his tongue hanging out of his mouth and his head to the
side. He will lift his front leg up and tap on her shoulder,
possibly to see if she will stand to be served. He mounts
and with a very quick thrust, the job is done.
I have noticed that when a buck successfully covers a doe
she will arch her back and tuck her bottom right under.
Is
she in kid?
Firstly, a pregnant doe will not come back into season (around
21 days). Quite often the vulva (area under her tail) will
be quite swollen, I find this is a good indication and it
occurs very early in the pregnancy.
An udder will develop from about 2-3 months in a first time
'kidder' and the belly will become quite large. 2-3 weeks
before kidding, some does get a clear to whitish, mucus discharge
(which is normal).
The only way to be 99.9% sure that your little one is pregnant,
contact your Vet and have an ultrasound done.
Small "pinched" vulva
of an un-bred doe |
Slightly swollen vulva of
a doe in early pregnancy |
Swollen vulva and developing
udder of doe (3mths) |
Fully developed udder
Doe kidded next day. |
Is she kidding?
Her vulva will appear very soft, large and elastic. The muscles
either side of the tail will become soft and her udder should
be very firm and may appear quite shiny. Usually the doe will
go off her feed just prior to the big event. She will appear
restless and may become noisy and distressed. She will walk
in tight circles, lie down and get up again several times.
She may paw at the ground (nesting behaviour) and may stand
for minutes at a time staring blankly into space and yawn
often. She may softly murmur to her little ones. Finally she
will lie down and begin the delivery.
We
let our does give birth in the paddock, provided they are
not being hastled by the other goats. We prefer to try to
keep everything as natural as possible, and do not like to
stress mum by locking her away from her friends, prior to
birthing. She can also give birth and "clean off"
in a grassy paddock rather than in a pen which means that
we do not have to interfere with her to clean out her pen
straight after giving birth. We leave mum with bub for a few
hours before penning her and her new little one/s.
Oh!! She IS Kidding!!!!!
Generally a bubble appears from within the vulva. This is
full of fluid to help lubricate the passage for the baby.
This quite often breaks as it is passed and the nose should
appear resting on the two front feet.
The doe will stretch out all four legs with each contraction
and often cries out in distress.
The
head should be seen resting on the two front feet, (in a breach
birth, only the two back feet are present). Mum may get up
and down, trying to get comfortable (occasionally they will
give birth standing).
The
head and shoulders are passed with lots of effort. The rest
of the body should slip out with incredible ease. Mum will
usually check to see what is happening and usually stands,
breaking the umbilical cord.
The kid/s should be born within 20 minutes of being visible
and Veterinary assistance should be sort if you think that
the kid is stuck.
Whhooo
hhoooo!!! She has kidded!!!!
The
doe should turn and start cleaning the kid stopping only to
give birth to the next kid or to pass the afterbirth. The
afterbirth (placenta) should come away cleanly and completely
within a few hours after the birth. The doe should stand to
allow her kid/s to suckle soon after the birth. The doe should
appear clean with no real discharge several hours after the
delivery. Check the kids out, make sure that there are no
deformities, eg/ twisted face, limb deformities, etc and while
you are there see what sex they are. Book down your dates
and any information that should be kept to help with any future
breeding.
Ok, what now?
When kidding has occurred with no problems, we do not interfere
with mother and kid/s, we do not put iodine on the cord, we
do not inject the baby with suppliments, we do not Inject
mum or baby with antibiotics. What we do is, make sure mum
and bub have clean bedding to lay on, make sure mum has access
to fresh cool water, shelter and a nice big dish of hay. We
try to separate mum from the rest of the girls (after a couple
of hours in the paddock), so that she can have some "quality"
bonding time with her new arrival/s in an area away from the
"hustle and bustle" of things (oh and the children,
other goats and visitors).
Is there any after care?
My doe has developed a really offensive discharge a week or
so after she has kidded! Yes this is normal. It can become
quite smelly and may appear as a thick brownish cream discharge
usually with a reddish colour to it. It is important that
the bucks are kept away from the does at this time, as this
is what I call a 'cleaning heat' although they do not actually
come into season. It should clear up within a week or two
but if you are concerned, I would suggest that you contact
your veterinarian so they can check things out. It is highly
recommended that you de-worm your goat now that she has kidded.
Contact your vet for advice.
If
at any time you are concerned about mum or bubs, contact your
Vet!!! We are always happy to help with questions you may
have at any time and are usually around if you need help.
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