patona park miniature goats

General Care

We keep our little goats as pets. They are often treated like family members rather than the farm animal that they really are. Our animals ARE spoilt, they are often fed things that "normal goats" would not get and they are quite often found in the house, running amuck with our children.
We have more detailed information on raising Bottle Baby Goats. The following is just some basic care that our goats are given.

HOUSING...There are many ways people house their goats. Goats need some sort of shelter, a dog kennel, a cubby house, a small shed, or at least some good sized trees that they can camp under when it rains or in the heat of the day.
Fencing can be hinge-joint, ring lock, or electric. We use both hinge-joint and electric in different areas. It is important to have good fencing, not only to keep your little ones in, but to keep stray dogs out. It is a good idea to have a small area that your animals can come up to of a night time and this can also be used as a working yard, when vaccination/worming time comes around.
Short-term Tethering is useful, but not the way that I would want to keep an animal for too long. Animals need to be moved regularly and need to be tied out where they will not get themselves tangled up.


FEEDING....Goats are naturally browsing animals, prefering to eat weeds and plants that are above shoulder height. Unfortunately, we keep them like grazing animals and expect them to make do with grass. Our animals are on an irrigated, mixed pasture and we close off half at a time to let it grow and seed.


Grasses

Mixed Pastures

Oats

Mulberry Leaves
Goats in a bushy paddock will do really well as they will suppliment their own diet with leaves, weeds and bark. We supply our goats with a Mineral Lick (free access) and offer them sliced pumpkin, carrots, apples and a handful of chaff / grain mix from time to time.
When the paddocks are "lean" or when our animals are "locked up", we feed good quality grassy lucerne hay and pasture hay. We often let our girls out into the little orchard we have and they prune all the lover branches on the trees for us.


Hobby Farm Mix

Lucerne Chaff

Fruit & Veg

Mineral Lick
We offer solid food when our babies have reached one week of age. It is a good time to introduce grassy lucerne hay or mixed chaff (½ lucerne ½ oaten) and a good quality grain mix, (work horse mix or goat muesli or steam flaked barley or guinea pig mix, etc). We offer about an ice-cream container full of hay-chaff with about a ½ cupful of grain sprinkled over the top. This is given freely each day and the left overs are removed the next morning and replaced with fresh food. Different food can be given as your baby grows including small amounts of fruit and vegetables (usually grated). Small amounts of craisins (found in the cooking isle next to the sultanas) can be given to wethers they are said to help prevent urinary stones (often caused by high mineral intake, bore water etc).
Your little one must have access to solid food, hay, chaff, grass etc starting at an early age, to develop the rumen (first stomach). Without solids, this part of the stomach may not fully develop and your little goat can become prone to digestive problems and other illnesses and will not develop and grow properly.

Fruit and Vegies
This is not a comprehensive list, this is simply some of the things we feed our goats….
Remember: "EVERYTHING IN MODERATION"

Apples, apple peal, apple core
Banana and peel, Watermelon, Mango and peel,
Strawberries, Tomato, Cucumber, Capsicum
Pumpkin, pumpkin seeds and peel, Celery
Carrot and peel, Beans, Silverbeet, Lettuce
Crushed garlic (a sprinkle over dinner, once or twice a week, great tonic and said to help keep parasites away)
Parsley (good for the blood)

We DO NOT feed bread or goat / chicken pellets (as a feed) at this early age, they have been known to cause stomach upsets and are said to hinder the rumen's development.
DO NOT feed potato peel
DO NOT
feed stone fruit leaves or seed kernels they are toxic


No Meat
Do NOT feed your baby beside it's best friend (your DOG) because your baby may get inquisitive and try to have a "look" at your dog's supper. Most dogs are quite patient, however on an "off day" your dog may tell your baby goat to leave it's dinner alone, unfortunately this will be relayed with your dogs
TEETH!
Do NOT feed meat, meat products, meat meal, DOG FOOD/BUSCUITS, CAT FOOD/BISCUITS, it's the LAW
Do NOT allow your baby to nibble on your dog's left-over bones either as this can cause BOTULISM.
Do NOT let your little ones eat over or pick at dog or cat faeces as they could pick up "toxoiplasmosis"


Fresh, clean WATER should be available at all times. I put a "trough block" (contains copper and used to prevent algae build up) in my paddock trough. These are great, they supply the goat with the copper they need and keep the water troughs clean. It is really important to make sure that their (Calcium) mineral block does not run out as this will help to balance the copper.

HEALTH.....Keeping your goats healthy is easy, provided you do not keep too many in too small an area and you make sure that they all have access to adequate feed, water and shelter. Goats have a natural "pecking order" and quite often the smaller, younger animals are "bossed" out of the feed trough or made to stay outside in the wet weather. It is very important to make sure that there is not too much "bossing" going on as this will unduly stress the animal being picked on which can trigger a bout of coccidiosis or an increased worm burden.

FEET...Feet need to be trimmed fairly regularly. This is very easy to do with a strong pair of (light) garden shears. I like to check feet just after rain, that way they are a little softer and easier to cut. Animals on soft ground will need trimming more often than those on harder ground and younger animals need to be checked more regularly compared to older ones.
The hoof wall will often grow under the foot, if left too long, but trimming it back is usually very easy.

Clip off small slices at a time so that you dont go too deep and draw blood. (If you do draw blood, dont panic, simply spray with a little antiseptic spray and finish up for the day).
Be sure that you clip the heal too and try to keep the bottom of the foot flat and even. Goats that are allowed to run around on concrete or rocks tend to need less attention on their feet.

If the feet are really long, thick and curled under, trim them a little one day and leave them for a day or two then trim them a little more. Keep doing this until you have the feet right again.

see VACCINATION & DE-WORMING





pygmy goat


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