The
following information has been complied for general reference
and educational purposes only. It is not intended, in any
way to replace professional veterinary advice or care for
your goats. The following information was originally compiled
from various sources (on-line, books, anecdotally, and person
experience) that reported the successful application of the
following on goats, as listed. This information is presented
without any guarantee. Any person making the decision to act
upon this information should consult with their Veterinarian
first and is solely responsible for the effects of their own
actions.
| DISBUDDING,
I am happy to offer disbudding services to anyone needing
to have their babies done.
I work quickly, carefully and as gently as possible.
Please read about the
procedure (below) before
bringing your babies out. I
charge $10 for each baby. |
Hot Iron Disbudding
(The removal of undeveloped horns on baby goats)
While
disbudding is not the most pleasant job for goat breeders,
it produces goats that are much safer to work around, that
are less likely to find themselves caught in fences or feeders
and are also less likely to injure other animals or their
human companions. Disbudding is one of the most difficult
jobs a goat breeder has to do. As responsible goat Breeders
we must be able to disbud in a safe way causing no harm and
the least amount of pain possible. Finding a veterinarian
that has experience with goats is almost impossible. I have
also been told that they do not like using general anaesthetic
on really young kids as the kids often do not come out of
it.
The disbudding iron is not the place to try to save money.
Get a good quality one that will do the job quickly. A low
quality iron heats slower and may not get hot enough, thus
making the procedure take longer and cause undue stress and
pain to the kid. I will list the steps I personally take in
the disbudding process. Please make sure you have an experienced
disbudder or veterinarian (that has experience with goats),
helping you the first time.
All kids are given a quick once over (Never disbud a sick
kid).
Ideally, my kids are done after they are 9 days
old. Kids can be done a little older but the job may take
a little longer and there may be more chance of scurs (small,
deformed horns) developing.
Kids are ready to do any time after you can feel a distinct
bump (the horn bud).
The most important thing to remember is to make sure the IRON
IS HOT. Let it heat up at least 10 minutes; we let it warm
up at least 20 minutes. We make sure it is ready by applying
it to a wooden board, you will get an immediate dark brown
ring and smoke.
Collect your kid, (one at a time), when you are ready to go.
This would be the ideal time to trim the hair around the buds.
I do not shave my goat's head, although this would reduce
the amount of smoke (for me). A cheap pair of human hair trimmers
is all you need.
I
prefer to restrain my kids by wrapping them in a towel,
many Breeders put them in a specially designed disbudding
box. I prefer the towel, it seems a little less severe
(for me).
I used to hold them in my arms while Andrew disbudded,
but find that they struggle too much and the job seemed
to take longer.
I drape the towel over my little one like so. I disbud
on a nice grassy patch or with a second towel under
their little chin. I use pavers or bricks to rest my
iron on. |
|
I
fold little front legs under and gently pop my little one
down on the ground.
Note the correct position of the legs and the way the kid
sits on the ground.
I straddle my little one being sure to pull the towel out
under my knees to tighten it up. The towel then acts as a
second set of hands.
I
run my hands down over the face and pull the little ears back.
I hold the little head down against the ground.
This is generally the time that the kid will start yelling,
they do not like to be restrained. I try not to panic and
remember I must remain calm, although my heart feels as though
it is going to race out of my chest….
I
firmly place the iron over the bud and evenly twist back and
forth for a couple of seconds. You should end up with a leathery
to white ring around the horn bud. I do the other side. If
I do not get a complete ring, I simply re-apply the iron for
a couple more seconds. Never burn more than a count of ten
at any time. (I count fast).
They say that the disbudding iron will actually cauterise
the nerves and the kid will feel little or no pain when you
are done. When you are done, spray both marks with an antiseptic
spray (the spray also stops the burning).
We
then let the little one go back to mum, or give them
their bottle that we prepared earlier. The nursing reflex
is a good way to judge stress - a stressed kid will
not nurse. Ours are usually off and bopping around under
mum or pestering us for their bottle, immediately after
they are released.
In a few days, the burnt area will become a scab. In
about 3 to 5 weeks (depending on the kid) the scabs
will fall off on their own. Do not pick at them. If
the scabs are scratched off by your little one, the
area may bleed a little so we always apply antiseptic
powder.
The head should be kept as dry as possible during the
healing process, so it's a good idea not to bath your
little one for the weeks following disbudding. |
|
Our
Thoughts on Disbudding....
Many people worry about causing brain damage during the
disbudding process. My advice is if you do not know what
you are doing, get a vet or an experienced disbudder to
do it, or at least, teach you to do it. In all the years
that we have disbudded, we have never lost one kid, or had
any kids appear sick after the procedure. Having the right
equipment, the confidence and the experience to perform
the job should prevent any injuries.
I offer disbudding service and
charge $10 per animal (by appointment only). I offer this
service on the condition that you understand the procedure
and agree to accept full responsibility for all outcomes.
Some Problems said to be Associated with
Disbudding
* Brain damage is caused by holding the disbudding
iron on the skull for too long. Not holding it on for long
enough will cause scurs to form, there is a balance. Doing
more than 4 kids in one day will not increase
the chance of any additional kids getting brain damage.
* Tetanus has been linked to one disbudding job that
I have been informed of. This simply points out the need
to have the mothers vaccinations up-to-date so that the
kid/s are covered.
* Infection the area should have an antiseptic spray
applied to help prevent infection.
* Mucky scabs occurs when the wound is wet, so
it is always best to keep the little one out of the rain
and avoid washing the area at bath time.
* Flies!!!! oooooooo!!!! These little creatures (on
rare occasions) leave their grubs to crawl around in the
(wet) wound, if the area is moist, another reason to keep
it dry. Metho should remove them and an antiseptic spray
with insecticide should prevent re-infestation.
* Bleeding - during disbudding, the iron may not be
quite hot enough, test it out on a small piece of timber,
it should burn a brown ring straight
away.
Some Problems that we have encountered....
* Bleeding - from scratching, occasionally the kid
will scratch at it's haed and cause the area to bleed, applying
dehorning powder will help to stem the bleeding.
* Horns re-growing happens from time to time and
can often be linked to the iron not being quite hot enough,
(disbudding on a really windy day, not allowing the iron
to heat up enough etc, disbudding animals that are too young
or using too wide a ring). In this situation, simply disbud
again.
* Scurs form when the bud is not quite removed, the
reasons above may also apply here and the scurs can be removed
by application of the edge of the hot iron over the area.
Doing the kids when they are ready and not doing
them all in one hit, most Breeders plan their breedings
so that their animals are kidding (in small groups) around
the same time, this would make the kids about the same age
in which case they would be presented for disbudding about
the same time. Provided the iron is given time to heat up,
in between each baby, the number of babies done at one time
should only depend on how many the handler was comfortable
doing. I would be more inclined to think that the more babies
that were done in one day, the better the jobs would get,
I know I get more confident as I go and each job seems to
get quicker.
The Disbudding Issue.....
We agree whole heartedly with Molly Bunton (Fiasco
Farm) in regards to the disbudding
issue. We too, have first hand knowledge and experience
with goats that have had horns v's goats that are without
and the procedures required for the latter.
We also believe that everyone has the right to have their
own opinion, has the right to choose how they want to keep
their own animals and what they want to use them for.
The Australian Miniature Goat was designed to be a PET
breed, pure and simple. Their size made them easier
to handle compared to their larger cousins (Dairy goats,
who I might add, are routinely disbudded). Breeders decided
(way back in 2002), that goats would only be allowed to
participate in Shows and Fun Days if they did not have horns,
for safety reasons (the same rule set by the Dairy Goat
Society of Australia).
*Safety for the handler/exhibitor/judge,
*Safety for the spectator/s who often want to have a pat,
*Safety for the travelling goat or the goat tied up beside
it's mate/s in their pen.
Breeders calling their animals
Australian Miniature goats and selling them as pets,
receive far more for their animals than they would if
they called them "commercial" goats, and that
is because they are marketed as PETS and not as someone's
next meal.
Unlike Molly Bunton (and many other Breeders), I did not
struggle with the disbudding issue, my decision was made
for me when the first "close call" occurred with
my own daughter while playing with her pet goat. Horns on
our goats, was NOT an option.
I truly believe it IS in the best interest of the
animal to disbud at an early age, considering what we have
chosen to use them for and how they are to be kept. I agree
with Molly Bunton when she states "In
the long term, they will have not only safer lives (less
likely to injure others) but they will also make better
herd mates, and safer pets and companions, thus helping
to guarantee they can live out their lives in good, loving,
caring, permanent homes"...more
from Molly....
Our animals are part of our family. We do try to ensure
that they are sold as pets and not as meat. We try to ensure
that they are going to really good homes where they will
be cared for AS PETS (breeding optional). I struggle with
the dairy cows being sent away when their useful life has
expired, so maybe I do "over compensate" with
my goats.
I do understand the financial side of things with "commercial
animals" (which unfortunately is what makes our world
go around, keeping us all fed) but that doesn't mean I have
to like it.
I agree with Molly's next statement, "It's
certainly better to go through a one time, short, painful
experience, than for a herd animal to be (individually)
penned, or tied out alone, by themselves for the rest of
their life", or to have been a bottle baby,
part of a human family, only to be abandoned later in life
because of a "scary" or dangerous set of horns.
We disbud for the same reasons many other Breeders do, including
Molly Bunton and agree with her when she says "We
do it because it is in the best interest of the goat and
is the responsible thing to do as the goat's caretaker".
If you go back to the last line under the "Basic
requirements for the welfare of goats", which
reads; "Protection from pain,
suffering and injury"; I believe that disbudding
our goats does protect them from unnecessary pain and injuries
sustained from fighting between otherwise horned animals
given that our animals are often yarded, share nice warm
shelters and are fed daily in a fairly confined area. As
we use "hinge joint" (dog mesh) to protect our
animals from predation (another basic welfare requirement),
disbudding our animals also protects them from getting stuck
in fencing and having to sit stuck somewhere until found
and released.
We agree with Molly when she says, "We
all go through difficult and painful experiences in our
lives - that is the nature of life; in life, there is some
suffering for all of us. It is our intent for our kids,
that going through one short difficult experience when they
are very young will alleviate more painful and difficult
experiences later in life. We are being responsible caretakers,
thinking about the long term well being of our charges.
We do the job very conscientiously; we do it as quickly
as possible, attempting to keep the pain and stress to an
absolute minimum. When done correctly the goat suffers no
long term negative physical, or emotional, effects from
the procedure".
We believe that the long-term benefits of disbudding far
outweigh the unpleasant but quick procedure.
I love this last quote from Molly,"As
I go through this life, I just try to be as kind, compassionate,
humane, and also understanding, as I can. We all... all
living beings,... are in this together; we aren't just separate
waves, but we are all part of the whole ocean". -Molly
Bunton.
Thanks Molly, for allowing us to use the above "quotes"
taken from your beautiful website, Fiasco
Farm 2007.
Our Duty of Care....
I would like to start with this extract from the Department
of Primary Industries, "Code
of accepted farming practice for the welfare of goats",
Bureau of Animal Welfare, Attwood,
from the Vic DPI website July 2007,
Goats are kept in situations that vary from extensive grazing
to close confinement and housing. Whatever the form of husbandry,
owners, managers and custodians of goats have a duty
of care and a clearly defined legal responsibility under
the Prevention of Cruelty to Animals Act 1986 to care for
the welfare of the animals under their control. The basic
behavioural, anatomical and physiological needs of goats
are considered in this document, irrespective of the method
of husbandry practised.
The basic requirements for the welfare of goats are:
· Food and water to sustain health and vitality;
· Sufficient space to provide freedom to stand, lie
down, stretch, turn around, move about and groom themselves;
· Protection from predation;
· Protection from disease, including disease that
can be exacerbated by management;
· Protection from extremes of climate during certain
phases of their life;
· Protection from pain, suffering and injury.
The
document also contained the following information on
disbudding, dehorning and tipping of goat horns;
Disbudding of kids should be by
heat cautery only. The entire horn bud must be removed
and the operation must be performed as soon as the bud
can be located. Regrowth of horn occurs very readily,
so kids should be checked two to three weeks after disbudding.
Disbudding by means of chemicals is not acceptable.
Dehorning (as distinct from
disbudding) should only be performed under general anaesthesia
or narcosis. Dehorning should only be performed by,
or under the supervision of, a registered veterinary
practitioner. Horn trimming or the removal of sharp
horn points is recommended to minimise injury to other
goats. It should be performed so as to avoid bleeding
and ensure that no sharp horn projection remain after
the procedure.
For a copy of the Model Code
of Practice for the Welfare of Animals - The Goat
go to the CSIRO
website and download a copy |
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